I t 's the center from Poultry. Konya, a community out-of a million souls, squats slap in the middle of Anatolia's crazy ordinary, enclosed by open, limitless prairie. Turkey's most culturally conventional area, Konya seems initially getting an area regarding tight headscarves and you will foreboding beards, out-of ostentatiously seen pieties and you can taboo beers. But discovering Konya is straightforward – getting right here, in the middle of the dated city, within his tomb out-of turquoise ceramic tiles, was Jelaluddin Rumi.

Rumi is among the planet's extremely discover poets. During his life, and since their passing into the 1273, pilgrims attended so you're able to Konya. Today, Rumi's tomb is actually Turkey's next extremely-went along to tourist destination following the Topkapi Castle inside Istanbul. Rumi is actually a mystical, a beneficial Sufi saint whom cherished all religions, and you will whose own faith is love. His followers do (whilst still being do) get rid of themselves in the hypnotic trance and dancing, both spinning for example tops all the time.

There clearly was a giant, impressive brand new municipal auditorium where it tender whirling people dancing was did, and you will any amount of pleasant shiny-eyed mystics into the carpet shop, cafes and you can medieval bazaars, most of the happier to help you receive you to definitely a personal zikhr

These spinning dervishes are in fact the fresh symbol away from Turkey's tourism tips, and you will sip tea on your own Istanbul resorts reception viewing particular bad bloke from inside the a taller beige thought hat whirling getting your own entertainment. To the real deal, even if, been heree so you're able to Konya and you also started to Turkey's spirit. In Rumi's conditions:

"Whoever you might be, become Even if you tends to be An infidel, an excellent pagan, otherwise a good fireworshipper, started The brotherhood is not among despair If you has actually busted Their vows regarding repentance one hundred minutes, already been."

Almost every 12 months given that 1983, I have already been future into two mil-or-therefore people whom visit Konya per year. Most are Turkish, many Iranians (which claim Rumi because their individual, while the the guy blogged within their vocabulary and you will grew up in eastern Persia) as well Russisk kvinnelige personer as improve pilgrimage.

In the place of and make Konya a halt toward a coach journey, I recommend getting for many months, taking in an impression, dining several of Turkey's top lamb, viewing the ideal Seljuk buildings and – possibly – dropping in love with Rumi. You can fly when you look at the affordably away from Istanbul, from which additionally there is a beneficial scruffy, atmospheric show, otherwise arrive by-road. Konya is actually simple reach of your cave dwellers and you can carpet vendors out of Cappadocia.

Rumi showed up right here due to the fact a beneficial boy, when Konya had started a neighborhood for 2,000 years. It absolutely was created by Hittites, have been been successful by Phrygians, then your Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the brand new kings off Pergamon additionally the Romans, exactly who called the set Iconium. New orleans saints Paul and you will Barnabus each other preached right here, however, of the 1071 the Seljuks, an excellent Turcoman group, have been in charge, as well as their structural history suffers.

Its Karatay Medrese from 1251 was a work of art out-of elaborate tiling and you may harmonious domes. It’s now the fresh new Museum out of Ceramic tiles and you may Ceramics, whose content keep up with the vibrancy and you may strike they'd whenever first discharged. Close by, the brand new Ince Minarali Medrese is brand new Museum out-of Brick and you can Wood Sculpture, and that is much less dry than simply I've made it voice. These two buildings whet your appetite to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, additionally the good Sahip Ata mosque: in place of a lot of the brand new Muslim globe, inside Chicken you’re motivated to visit mosques, any your spiritual choice.

During the junction of your own dated city as well as unattractive the latest neighbour 's the Alaaddin mosque, the newest city's vantage part, whoever beautiful dark pulpit and you may delicate prayer-specific niche come from 1155 (new advanced is actually finished in 1221). The latest boulevard radiating from here brings one Rumi's tomb, where a great deal more after. Rumi is known to Turks while the Mevlana (this new Sainted One), now Konya is during thrall to help you Mevlanamania.

When i basic emerged, Mevlana's followers, the newest Mevlevi, was basically a banned organisation, accepted simply for its "folkloric dancing" and you will whirlings. Conferences took place secretly, illegally.

I mentioned eating, as well. Konya's lamb-centric cooking is superb. Etli ekmek are a lengthy, narrow roll-up pizza give having delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab is a mutton shank, very slower roasted and you can served towards the a support of bread which have a nice red-colored onion. The most effective was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soup and you will do-it-yourself natural yogurt is actually heaven-made.

Therefore, remarkably fed, with many glasses of nice tannic teas inside you, make your way to Rumi's tomb. You join the awestruck, the brand new interested while the fervent. A mystical twinkly white takes on into the tombs regarding Rumi and you can his followers. The structure is stitched with calligraphy, as well as the ceilings is actually good kaleidoscope out-of fantastically executed arabesques. Rumi's tomb is covered into the greatly stitched material off gold, and you may seems to radiate white and comfort and compassion.

Are common went, to possess let me reveal love

Some of your own fellow pilgrims have a tendency to comprehend Korans, while others Rumi's poetry. Very bring photographs, although this is purely taboo. You will find people who cry gently, and those who make fun of aloud; individuals who reflect non-stop, and those who rush through.

To try out on the side and you may insinuating alone in the awareness 's the ney, a good reed flute. It sounds such as for example breathy air, but is actually the voice out-of flame, hence rises and you will falls in to the all of us. That isn't some sullen religious whining, however the voice out of wanting, of communion, of your cardiovascular system. You really have it – it's heart tunes, therefore extremely supplies you with. Therefore started.

Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies to help you Konya via Istanbul from Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and Manchester, out-of ?219 rtn inc taxes. Istanbul so you're able to Konya because of the train will set you back from all around ?24 get back, or around ?36 come back by the shuttle. Resorts Balikcilar has actually rooms or about ?70 (while having serves cold beers). Resorts Dergah (+ninety 332 351 76 61) bed room up to ?20. Passes observe the fresh whirling dervishes is actually clear of new traffic place of work, at the rear of Mevlana's tomb. Mete Horzum within SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) organizes personal whirling and zikhr from ?30pp.